Where We Have Been - USA - San Francisco to Las Vegas
As opportunities have come along for us to explore places rich with stories, we weren’t quite sure what to expect from the USA—especially given it’s a relatively young country, much like our own. But it delivered a stack of uniquely American cultural experiences we enjoyed far more than we’d imagined.
Just as memorable were the people: unfailingly friendly and helpful, often intrigued by our accents and quick to tell us how keen they were to visit New Zealand.
Overall, we were pleasantly surprised—and are already looking forward to returning.
We thought Australia was big—and it is—especially once you head inland and the population thins out. But the USA is on an entirely different scale.
If you’d like to follow our journey more closely, here’s our route and where we stayed along the way: Dallas, Austin, Dallas, New York, San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Olancha, Las Vegas, Grand Canyon West, Grand Canyon South, Seligman, Las Vegas, Memphis, New Orleans, Lafayette, Houston, San Antonio, Austin, Waco, Dallas.
From San Francisco we grabbed a rental car to drive the classic Pacific Coast Highway. Unfortunately, one section was closed due to a significant landslide, but what we did get to see absolutely lived up to its reputation.
Our Route – San Francisco – Monterey – Santa Barbara – Olancha – Death Valley – Las Vegas
Our first stop was Monterey—California’s former capital for a long stretch of its early history—which turned out to be a very pretty spot to ease into the Pacific Coast Highway pace. We spent time on a lovely stroll along the waterfront and explored Old Fisherman’s Wharf.
We also grabbed the chance to go Whale Watching. It wasn’t really the ideal time of year, but we still saw a couple of whales, a decent raft of Sea Lions out in the open ocean, and—our personal favourite, and a first for us in the wild—Sea Otters back in the harbour. Monterey Bay is famous for wildlife, and we were told that at the right time of year it’s not unusual to encounter more than a dozen whales in a single trip.
D & Friend @ Old Fisherman’s Wharf
Old Fisherman’s Wharf from Boardwalk
Monterey
Old Fisherman’s Wharf
Sea Otter, Monterey Harbour
Sea Lion Raft off Monterey
The offshore oil rigs as we headed towards Santa Barbara for our next stop were unexpected—though not as overbearing as you might imagine.
The following day we were forced inland because of the road closure. In a funny little travel coincidence, we were chatting to family back in New Zealand while driving along the Ventura Freeway when Ventura Highway started playing on the radio. Pretty amazing timing.
We passed an Aircraft Boneyard near Mojave and stopped for lunch before carrying on to our overnight stop at the Olancha RV Park & Motel. We’d booked an “executive suite”—in name only—but it was perfectly fine, sitting under the shadow of the Sierra Nevadas. The young chap who checked us in also waited our table, cooked our dinner and breakfast, and served our drinks—completely solo. Very versatile.
Ventura Highway Playing on Ventura Freeway
Aircraft Graveyard, Mojave
Olancha RV Park & Motel
Olancha RV Park & Motel
From Olancha we hit the road for Death Valley (David still has “ride a motorcycle through Death Valley” firmly lodged on his bucket list), and worked our way through what can only be described as the park’s greatest hits.
At Father Crowley Vista Point, we stood scanning the vastness of Rainbow Canyon (nicknamed Star Wars Canyon), hoping to catch a glimpse of low-flying USAF fighter jets. We heard them—an unmistakable roar echoing through the canyon—but only managed to spot tiny specks slicing across the sky in the far distance.
Zabriskie Point was next, and it didn’t disappoint. The rippled badlands, sculpted by erosion into soft folds and ridges, looked almost unreal—especially with the shifting light bringing out the creams, golds, and browns. It’s one of those places where photos never quite capture the scale.
The Devil’s Golf Course was exactly as hostile as its name suggests. Jagged salt formations stretched out in every direction, sharp and chaotic, created as water evaporated and left behind crystallised minerals. You could absolutely imagine only the devil trying to play golf here.
At Artists Palette, the landscape shifted again. The hills were streaked with greens, pinks, purples, and yellows—natural mineral deposits painting the rock like a giant abstract canvas. It was one of the most unexpectedly colourful places of the entire trip.
And finally, Badwater Basin. Standing on the salt flats at 86 metres below sea level, the lowest point in North America, felt quietly surreal—especially knowing the surrounding mountains rise so dramatically above you. Stark, silent, and completely unforgettable.
Death Valley is harsh, beautiful, and endlessly varied—and even without a motorcycle, it left a serious impression.
Sierra Nevadas from Olancha RV Park & Motel
Father Crowley Memorial
Father Crowley Vista Point- Rainbow Canyon
Devils Golf Course
Devils Golf Course
C & D @ Zabriskie Point
Badwater Basin
C @ Badwater Basin
Artists Palette
After a very memorable day, we exited Death Valley National Park and headed for Las Vegas.
Zabriskie Point, Death Valley
Tip: Allow plenty of time. Even doing the “abbreviated” Pacific Coast Highway route we travelled, both Monterey and Death Valley deserved far more time than we gave them.
Highlight: We can’t pick just one, so we’re calling it a tie. Monterey was a standout for its prettiness and wildlife—especially the Sea Otters eating in the harbour, which will stay with us for a long time (a return visit allowing us to take in Monterey Car Week would be perfect). And then there’s Death Valley, with its stark, otherworldly vistas that feel almost impossible to take in properly in a single day.
Memory: David convincing Carolyn to detour a good few miles because he was hoping to spot some USAF planes linked to Edwards Airforce Base… only for the “destination” to turn out to be a lonely guard post in the middle of the desert with nothing visible. Classic.
We did meet a young chap on the Badwater Basin salt flats who looked like a time traveller from Woodstock—absolutely fizzing with excitement because a pilot had buzzed him and waved earlier in the day. It was one of those wonderfully random travel moments.
Closing Thought: We’ll be back—next time to travel north from LA all the way up the Pacific Coast Highway to beyond San Francisco (assuming the road is actually open). And if Carolyn’s Las Vegas conference wish list happens, that gives David the perfect excuse to tick off his bucket-list dream of riding a motorcycle through Death Valley.
We’ve been lucky over the years to travel more than many—though nowhere near as much as we still aspire to. The world is a big place, and there are so many destinations left to discover: places we haven’t seen yet, places we want to explore more thoroughly, and old favourites we can’t wait to reconnect with.
Elsewhere on Crows on the Go, you’ll find:
• more about our travels and the places we’ve been
• our thoughts (and, in some cases, tips) on those destinations
• the places that have become “special” to us
• and more!